Archive for the Uncategorized Category

A review of Aperture 27,000

Posted in Uncategorized on February 22, 2009 by halfpalestinian

http://www.thenational.ae/article/20090222/ART/104479056/1007

Experienced eyes

Alan Philps

  • Last Updated: February 22. 2009 9:30AM UAE / February 22. 2009 5:30AM GMT

The Wadi Rum triptych by Sama Alshaibi hints at the limitless landscape of the Iraq-born photographer who now holds an American passport. Photographs courtesy Le Violon Bleu

Images of Palestinians crowded the television screens last month – usually of men tearing at the rubble of their homes or women sitting in despair at the side of a road. But what do Palestinians feel away from the war zone, when the bombs are not falling?

An exhibition in London that showcases the photographic work of four female Palestinian artists aims to go some way to answering this question. Focused on the two poles of Palestinian experience – exile and confinement – it comprises the work of artists whose work is shaped by their geographical realities. Sama Alshaibi lives in America and has a US passport; Rula Halawani, a resident of East Jerusalem, sees the painful realities of Palestine every day as she battles through Israeli checkpoints to get to the West Bank; Rana Bishara has chosen to live in her hometown of Tarshiha in Galilee, far from the big cities of the West Bank or Israel; Anisa Ashkar lives in Tel Aviv and has opted to work in the public sphere of Israeli art.

The exhibition, called Aperture 27,000 – a reference to the land mass of historic Palestine in square kilometres – makes no excuses for being political. The title, explains the curator, Salma Tuqan, subverts the meaning of aperture – the adjustment that controls the amount of light passing through the camera lens – by forcing it to refer to the control of movement by the Israeli occupation. This control was highlighted in the cruellest of ways by the fate of the people of Gaza – living in a war zone but with nowhere to flee from the Israeli attacks.

No one can fail to be moved by the 12 photographs shown by Rula Halawani of the Qalandia checkpoint, which she is forced to pass through on her way from Jerusalem to Bir Zeit University, a few flaps of the wing as the crow flies but for most Palestinians a near impossible journey. Every picture focuses on a pair of hands – those of the Israeli soldier and those of the Palestinian supplicant, anxious, tired or resigned. Their faces are not shown. But the whole gamut of humanity is hinted at in the hands – the gnarled fingers of a peasant, the snow-white cuffs and mobile phones of the middle class. The series is called Intimacy, which only highlights the fact that the hands of occupier and occupied never touch. All interaction is conducted through the showing of ID cards and paper passes, the searching of bags, or the humiliating display of underwear as Palestinian men have to lift their shirts to prove they are bomb-free.

“At the checkpoint there are no privileges. Everyone waits in line and is reduced to an ID number, and everyone is searched and questioned,” says Halawani, who is the director of the photography unit at Bir Zeit University. “In these images we see different gestures of waiting and postures of the human body as they are positioned in an unequal power relation.”

Perhaps even more eloquent than the hands are the concrete blocks that take up the centre of the images, their massive bulk seeming to be more real than the faceless people whose power and impotence are displayed on either side of them. Though the checkpoint is an opening in the wall, these pictures never let you forget that it is really just another part of the blockade.

The other end of the scale is Sama Alshaibi, an assistant professor of photography at the University of Arizona. Born to a Palestinian mother in Basra, Iraq, but now holding a US passport, her life is not defined by the struggle against occupation but by nostalgia for a half-known homeland and a search for an identity for her and the next generation.

In one photograph she displays the belly of a pregnant woman – her own, as it happens – with the date 10 Nov 04 written on it. There is a conundrum in this date that – in a rather intellectualised way – she uses to highlight the separation of diaspora Palestinians from their people. Yasser Arafat died in Paris on Nov 11, 2004, though it was still the previous day in Arizona.

“I wanted to show that a dispossessed people cannot even mourn together. They cannot mark the date on the same day,” said Alshaibi.

Her experience is that of the wandering Palestinian: her parents fled the Iran-Iraq war, waiting for a safe time to return. Her mother decided that she could not spent a lifetime waiting. “My mother could not take any more. She had seen her father waiting for a chance to return to Palestine which never came. She went to America.”

As an American citizen, her world is wide. One of her photographs shows a lone woman in the desert of Wadi Rum, an empty landscape apart from a single tent in the background.

This limitless landscape could not be further from the reality of Rana Bishara. Her most striking image, called Homage to Palestine, is of cactus leaves bottled in a glass jar. The cactus jar dates from 1999, and now seems a work of extraordinary prescience. The Gazans are confined in a glass jar, with no prospect of escape.

Anisa Ashkar, a performance artist first and a photographer second, represents a different strain. She has gone out of her way to create a challenging identity. Born in Acre, she lives in Tel Aviv – a Muslim Arab in the most Israeli of cities, a woman in a male-dominated world.

Trained in Israel, she uses references from beyond the Arab world, including Van Gogh, Paul Klee and the Greek myths. In a self-portrait titled Agria Matia she has photographed herself as Medusa, the female monster of Greek myth with snakes on her head whose single look was enough to turn men to stone. In Ashkar’s view, Medusa is a character of great female strength. Yet this Medusa affirms her Palestinian character, with Arabic script written on her face.

The exhibition opened in January during Israel’s attack on Gaza. The timing is what the gallery owner, Selma Feriani, calls “an unfortunate coincidence”. At the opening of the exhibition it was announced that five per cent of the proceeds of the sale will go to Medical Aid for Palestinians, a charity that is working to supply Gaza’s overstretched hospitals.

The exhibition highlights a peculiar dilemma for Palestinian artists. The public expects them to focus on their cause but, if they give the public what it expects, the public may shrug and say, “Is that all they can do?”

Salma Tuqan, the curator, believes that the identification of the Palestinian artist with the cause is becoming weaker as time passes. “Many people think that the work of a Palestinian artist has to reflect the conflict. But that is not always true. Some artists embrace it and some stay clear of it. It seems to me that there is a younger generation of Palestinian artists who are more subject to international influences, so their work is less overtly political.”

Alshaibi says the issue is not whether the work is political or not. “There is much more here than stories of displacement and confinement. It shows how the reality of Palestinians is shaped by the documents we each have. Everyone’s experience is different, and no one has the right to speak for all Palestinians. This exhibition is where we take back the power.”

Aperture 27,000 is showing at Le Violon Bleu Gallery, Maddox Street, London, until Saturday.

Palestinians take center stage at this year’s Art Dubai

Posted in Uncategorized on February 22, 2009 by halfpalestinian

http://www.bi-me.com/main.php?id=31943&t=1&c=33&cg=4&mset=

INTERNATIONAL. Art Park, the underground art space dedicated to experimental and site-specific artwork, will again play host to a dynamic program, this year collaborating with leading Middle Eastern not-for-profit organisations such as the Art School Palestine and ArteEast.

Situated beneath the main halls of Art Dubai, Art Park acts as a space for the exploration of site-specific artworks with particular emphasis placed on experimental film and video, reflecting the current vibrancy of these art forms in the Middle East.

This Art Dubai programme will feature the special contribution of Bidoun through a series of curated video programmes in the Bidoun Lounge, designed by Traffic and the Khatt Foundation.

Art Dubai has collaborated with leading Middle Eastern non-profit organisations such as ArteEast and Art School Palestine on a series of video and film programmes and additionally the space features a film programme presented by Contemporary Practices and the Me series by Iranian artist Ghazel. Besides the exhibitions, the space promises to engage visitors of Art Dubai by hosting a several exciting performances.

Art Park Talks is an educational initiative that aims to provide a forum and platform for discussions, dialogue and exchange through a series of informal talks. Art Park Talks will address a range of relevant topics from live art to design and typography within the Middle East as well as engage the audience through interactive participation. These discussions will be held at the Bidoun Lounge, designed by Traffic and the Khatt Foundation.

Art Dubai aims to provide a platform for Performance art, a new media that is growing around the Middle East by introducing the debut of a diverse programme of Middle Eastern, British and Indian artists, Amongst others, there will be performances by Roula Haj Ismail (supported by Maya and Ramzy Rasamny), Kirstie Macleod (supported by British Council), Shilpa Gupta (supported by ArtAsiaPacific), Susan Hefuna, Rabih Mroué (supported by Bidoun) and Monali Meher (supported by Mondriaan Foundation).

Mapping Palestine, is an initiative of Art School Palestine which consists of three autonomous locations: a series of video programmes entitled Tamam, (Arabic for ‘everything is fine’) in the Art Park, the Art School Palestine Pavilion Akhir al Layl, (Arabic for ‘at the end of the night’), and lastly, a series of presentations by Palestinian art organisations. Together, they work synergistically to expose the harsh reality of occupation and dispossession.

The video series Tamam, featured In Art Park, questions whether life really can be normal in a state of occupation. Tamam will showcase the videowork of Khalil Rabah, Sharif Waked, Larissa Sansour, Mohanad Yaqubi amongst others.

Akhir al Layl (Arabic for ‘at the end of the night’), derived from a poem by the late Palestinian poet Mahmoud Darwish will feature a range of two-dimensional artworks by artists living and working in Palestine and the Diaspora. Participating artists include: Mona Hatoum, Sama Alshaibi, Yazan Khalili, Rula Halawani, Sharif Waked, Shuruq Harb Alexandra Handal, Ahlam Shibli, Jawad Al Malhi, Rauf Haj Yihya and Rana Bishara.

The third integral part of Mapping Palestine is a presentation of the Palestinian cultural landscape for which Palestinian art organisations such as A M Qattan Foundation, Palestinian Art Court Al Hoash and The International Academy of Art Palestine have been invited to present their work and activities, the challenges they face and their visions for the future.

For further information about the Art Dubai, participating galleries, art projects, events and the education programme visit www.artdubai.ae

Art Dubai is a subsidiary of the Dubai International Financial Centre and is held in partnership with Abraaj Capital. Madinat Jumeirah is the exclusive hotel partner for the event.

Art Dubai will also feature ‘The Art of Magical Jewels’, a museum quality exhibition, curated by Van Cleef & Arpels and a full schedule of Education events as part of the Deyaar Education Programme.

Contemparabia is a joint initiative of the Abu Dhabi Authority for Culture and Heritage (ADACH); Art Dubai; the Sharjah Biennial; and the Qatar Museums Authority. For details log on to www.contemparabia.com

START is the official CSR programme of Art Dubai. For more information, visit www.startworld.org

Iraqi Refugees in Jordan Part 5

Posted in Uncategorized on January 10, 2009 by halfpalestinian

working-2working-3workingSomewhere, Jordan
Jan 2009

We got permission.

I hand the driver an address written in Arabic, and we drive a long time. Somehow we received the unexpected chance to shoot at a factory where men made the concrete and stone materials used for building fabrication. The factory sits behind a row of tall buildings, completely hidden by the main highway. For the life of me, I couldn’t tell where we are.

The landscape exposes a scattering of shanty homes and makeshift factory zones. It all looks very temporary, like the whole factory could be placed on a semi truck bed overnight and hauled away. Disappeared, with only a pile of smashed tomatoes left by the workers, their lunch rotting in the afternoon sun.

The men who work at the factory are almost ghosts. For weeks I have heard of such men, but I have not seen them. When our taxi arrives, the workers instinctively pull down their caps and hattas. From a distance they look to be sheltering their eyes from the sun, or protecting their faces from the continual rise of dust and debris.

They must know a stranger is among them, yet their reaction is one of restraint. Later, I hear that raids often occur in factories like these, and the workers are known to run away as fast as they can. But our taxi car doesn’t set off enough warning bells, so they hold steady.

Being girls can also have its advantages.

A boss looking figure asks me where I am from, and I pretend to not understand his Arabic. He asks again in English, and I reply that I am from Arizona. My American accent appears to satisfy him, and he leaves us alone. I focus my camera on the cracked hands, the steady chipping of limestone blocks, the hammer pounding away. The hauling and moving of wet cement are shaped into blocks, each man on his own ground, lost in the noise and the monotonous motion of difficult work.

Normally when I pull out my camera in the public spaces of Jordan, a huge crowd gathers. It is the most unfortunate circumstance, often killing all hope of spontaneous footage of ordinary life. But here I am ignored. I notice that a few edge away from the pointing camera. Those who remain in the shot turn their back, or pull their chins into their necks, revealing only the tops of their heads. We negotiate this careful dance without any words between us. I tape, they work, but we both do our part to keep their faces out of the frame.

I start to wonder about this exchange between the workers and myself. I wonder if they knew what I was doing, maybe secretly hoping my taping was part of some undercover mission to expose their exploitation. But I quickly dismiss this thought; after all, they desperately need the work; why in the world would they want to be exposed?

Perhaps they were simply afraid to deny me their likeness, worried it would make me suspicious of their nationality. After all, why would a laborer have any problem with the some random taping of them hard at work, the banal footage of them pounding limestone, Jordan’s proud progress in its rapid (over) development? Or maybe they didn’t even have the time to think that far, of what implications of having their presence recording on video meant to their security or future. The camera presence is tempting; it can make you feel a little important. I could be making infomercials for a construction company, or working for a major newspaper, or even taping their likeness as evidence to incriminate them in their illegal employment. Did they even think of that? Did those thoughts stand a chance against the seduction of feeling important? A stranger with a camera, choosing you as her star.

This thought makes me feel guilty. I don’t want to use anyone, or hurt anyone. Ever. I have an obligation not to exploit these people who don’t have the power to even say no to my taping. The boss said it was okay, so who are they to say no? Even worse, saying no might further incriminate them.

I know what I am shooting, and there is nothing damaging on my tapes. You can’t see anyone’s face. You can’t figure out where the location is. It is just a pile of cement, in a nondescript space, with some anonymous guys trying to survive. Their hands alone can’t reveal their nationality.

But I know. I know they work for shameless wages, doing what they have to do. I know that everything is against them. I know the truth. I know they have no choice but to stand there and work, while I tape. Even if my tapes are being used to help such men, and I work to keep their identities a secret, it still might wrong. Maybe my good intentions aren’t enough. I suddenly didn’t feel like taping anymore.

We get back to the car, and the guys suddenly stop working. They stand around, each one on his own, looking our way. They are staring at us, trying to figure us out.

We drive away slowly while the workers wave goodbye.

Iraqi Refugees in Jordan Part 4

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , , on January 8, 2009 by halfpalestinian
rakim walking down his alley

rakim walking down his alley

tea

Rakim receiving clothes and food distribution

Rakim receiving clothes and food distribution

A donated oil heater (soba) for Rakim

A donated oil heater (soba) for Rakim

Jan 5th, 2009
Amman, Jordan

It’s distribution day. It’s only eight thirty a.m., but Najlaa is bouncing around like a kid at Christmas. Her tiny frame is lifting massive boxes of donated clothes, mattresses, rugs and bags of blankets into the rented van. She even has a bag of frozen lamb, donated by family who wanted to give the Iraqi Refugees meat for the Eid Al-Adha (the holiday of Abraham’s sacrifice). Most of the Iraqi families received their portion back in early December, but Rakim and his wife don’t live in Amman. The trip to travel back and forth to Zarqa is expensive, so Najlaa waited till she could accumulate all the household items the family needs before visiting them. Rakim is old, and has lost one of his legs to Gangrene, so the trip to Amman is really difficult for him.

Some of the NGO’s in Amman fail miserably at distribution. They don’t personally check with the families to see what they need, often double or triple distributing the same items to a single family, while other necessities go unfilled. They also don’t visit family homes to evaluate the condition of items they might already own, such as sobas (oil space heaters), which emit dangerous smoke when they are old. And families who do not have the means or ability to make it to these distribution centers are literally left out in the cold.

Najlaa’s primary concern is such families. She knows that the young and strong will find a way to sit in lines for hours upon hours to receive their rations of heaters, blankets and coats. Although Direct Aid serves such families too, her thoughts are concentrated on the most vulnerable: orphan children, the old and disabled, the very sick including the mentally ill, and those who live too far away from Amman where all the NGO’s are located. Rather than waiting for them to contact or come to her, she seeks them out. She regularly arranges for volunteers and drivers to penetrate the Jordanian countryside and other cities to provide needy families with the basics to survive the winter, personal items to live with dignity, and a mattress and pillow to get their bodies off the freezing concrete floors.

This kind of work makes Najlaa excited. She lives to see the smile on their faces when she can bring them things to make their life a little easier, or when a hard fought battle for resettlement is won. It’s their smiles that keep her going. Even among the hours of painful interviews she must conduct (their history, what kind of conditions made them flee Iraq, what are their current obstacles and struggles, etc), she finds ways to bring a smile to all present. She cracks jokes, compliments them, passes out chocolate to the children, listens deeply and fully, and always finds a way to come through. Everyone loves her, and whether she comes into their homes with meat or empty handed, she always brings something special into their homes. A friend they can trust. Someone that will fight for them. Dignity and hope.

Najlaa doesn’t exaggerate, or give false hope where there is none. She is always honest, and doesn’t steer the refugees onto useless paths. She is a pragmatic, and built with an internal compass of fairness and morality. She refuses to favor any of the families; whatever energy and commitment she provides for one case, she insists on the same for others. Her commitment is unwavering, but when I or others compliment her she quickly redirects the gratitude towards her organization, the “team” she works with, and the people she herself serves.

We arrive in Zarqa by 9:30, traveling up and down the busy markets looking for Rakim’s home. His simple directions require a telepathic talent. When we finally arrive, he greets us on the main road, a few young boys at his side. They are his neighbors, willing to help move all the items into his tiny home that sits back at the end of a windy and narrow alleyway. Rakim deftly navigates his way through the uneven terrain with his crutches and single leg. He’s full of life and jokes. His white hair shines over the brightness of his personality and spirit.

We sit outside his home drinking coffee and conducting his interview. Najlaa’s is surprised by stories Rakim tells us of her father, who passed away only a year ago. Rakim knew him from Baghdad, and recounts stories as far back as the 1970’s. She listens intently, beaming at the complimentary reflections Rakim’s memories express. But then the subject shifts to his own struggles; especially the killing of his family members, and the mood of the space darkens. He sobs quietly at the story of his uncle being dumped in the trash after his murder. His head is in his hands, his shoulders shake, but I don’t hear a sound. I watch his white hair glistening in the morning sun for a moment, but then I realize I should look away. After a few minutes, he lifts his head defiantly, and declares proudly that he has lived through six regime changes.

We all laugh, grateful for the moment.

The will to survive, the steadfastness in the face of injustice, and the determination to be better than those morally bankrupt beings whose actions destroy the lives of others…I see it here, day in and day out. Palestinians call it summound, steadfastness, and their Iraqi cousins possess the same grit; resolute not only in their own survival, but in helping their community as well. I am sure some will think I’m biased (I am half Palestinian and half Iraqi after all), but it is not just I who notices the similar tenacity of the two peoples. Both groups are largely without leadership, at odds and under occupation with the strongest super power countries in the world, betrayed by all governments, often denied of basic human rights, incarcerated by visible barriers while negotiating invisible boundaries not easily penetrated, internally and externally displaced in and from their country, and absent of a collective vision towards a future that can reunite them on their own land. The Iraqis and Palestinians I have met are always quick to offer their support in solidarity for the other. When I reveal my mixed identity to either Iraqis I met here in Jordan, or Palestinians in the West Bank, I often get quick grins and compliments of my two bloodlines. “Powerful combination” or “They must love you in America” are the usual retorts.

Rakim and Najlaa discuss possible resettlement locations for his family. They discuss America but dismiss it because their need of strong social services for refugees. They finally agree to Sweden. Suddenly, the subject changes. For eight months they have believed their son was dead. He was caught working illegally in Jordan, and was deported to Iraq some time ago. He then fled Iraq to Turkey, and tried to cross to Greece by water. His parents were told that his boat downed in the water, and that he didn’t survive. But several weeks ago they heard he actually survived and was jailed in a Greek prison. They didn’t know if this story was true or if family members that couldn’t bare to hear of their suffering decided a little lie might comfort them in their relentless anguish. They tried calling the prison to check on the story, but couldn’t get any information, and the language barrier was also a problem. Najlaa tells them she has a great contact at the Red Cross who can find out such things, so she promises to try her best to get them the information they so desperately want. They are ecstatic, jumping with joy, kissing her and asking God to protect her. The not knowing has been eating at them for weeks. They give Najlaa his picture, and praise her willingness to help.

We leave with tears streaming down our eyes, their calling praises and protection from God at our backs. Najlaa looks at the small photograph they gave her, the face of the handsome young man smiling brightly.

Her burden is now to find him, praying that he is still alive.

Iraqi Refugees in Jordan Part 3

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , on January 6, 2009 by halfpalestinian

Abu Abbas and Om Abbas

Taboon at Abu Abbas

Taboon at Abu Abbas

Abu Abbas and Chicken Biryanni

Looking at family pictures with her sister in law

Looking at family pictures with her sister in law

Jan 2nd, 2009
Amman, Jordan

Abu Abbas has brought the outdoor kitchens of Iraq to his backyard. A three way spit to hold “Masgouf” (the national dish of Iraq, cooked on an open flame and made of river carp) – stands ready for barbeque. He also has a large circular oven that he throws flattened dough onto its sides. The results are the delicious Iraqi breads – Taboon, circular and fluffy, fresh and warm. Our friend who introduces us to Abu Abbas stares at the oven pit and shakes her head. She points to her cheeks and tells us that she’s receiving laser therapy for the pigmentation shifts on her face. During the years of sanctions against Iraq, food was scarce and her job was to make bread for her extended family. Countless hours standing next the flames have discolored her face with America’s policy of collective punishment towards unfavorable regimes.

Abu Abbas hands us large rounds of warm bread, and I devour mine. The last time I had this bread fresh was in Iraq in the winter of 1981. We were living in Basra, during the Iraq Iran War. Food was a scarcity then too, and the bread shops rarely opened. On this occasion, we heard it might be opened. My mother sent my brother and I along to stand in line, and we brought our chocolate lab dog Snoopy with us for protection. We stood in line for nearly an hour on a chilly dark night, but my memories of it were actually quite joyous. Our neighbors also stood in line with us, and everyone was laughing and talking. No one really got out much anymore because of the night raids, so this opportunity of sitting in line for bread almost felt like an impromptu party. We took bags of the bread home, freezing much of it for later use. My mother pulled out a bowl of dibbis (date syrup) and we dunked our bread in the molasses mess and into our mouths. Warm bread and sweet dibbis. Sustenance of life.

I asked Om Abbas if she brought any special items from Iraq when they fled. I wanted to take pictures of the items she found too precious to leave. She replies that she brought her important papers and passports. I keep pressing her—items from your wedding, jewelry, and heirloom from your family. She shakes her head, and a look darts across her eyes. I don’t want to remind her of all of the things she left. She looks around the small room and shows me the bag she brought from Iraq. One duffle bag, stuffed with clothes. I photograph the uninteresting bag (still stuffed with clothes) and look around her place. One tiny flag of Iraq on the wall, otherwise fairly barren. The tiny apartment they live in is tidy, and a much better construction than Hamid’s. But it is barren, empty of life. Their home looks like many of the homes I have seen so far. They are indistinguishable from waiting rooms. The lucky ones have sponges for beds, perhaps a couch or two over used rugs. A small TV on its last legs. Abu Abbas has an old computer with a webcam that he talks to his family in Iraq with.

But there are no pictures, no tokens of identity and history anywhere. No plants or calendars. Just plain walls, with a tiny Iraqi flag.

For many Iraqis, Jordan is just an intermediary step, a holding place until their number comes up for resettlement. And so they live in this liminal space for years, not daring to get comfortable, not naïve enough to believe they can think of their guest status as something tangible enough to warrant putting pictures on the walls. Everyone lives in fear of deportation, and their homes reflect their fear. The walls hold their breath, waiting to exhale.

I ask about old family pictures. Om Abbas’ face lights up. She pulls out her wallet and shows me two pictures of her sisters. She tells her son to get the rest. He pulls out a small stack of pictures that appear to be pulled from an old family album. Pictures of their parents, their homes, their loved ones. Abu Abbas points to a woman in the picture and tells us it is his sister, killed in Baghdad. She was walking in the market with her young son when an explosion detonated. Over 200 Iraqis were killed. No one told Abu Abbas for months. Each time he called his family in Iraq, they will tell him his little sister was at her uncles, shopping, or at a friends. Once day, he called her home and her young son told him she was at their aunts. Abu Abbas, missing his little sister very much and wanting to speak to her, called to the home she was supposedly visiting. There he heard she was at another’s home. He tried there too. Four phone calls later, with his heart pounding, and understanding that something was gravely wrong, he demanded to know where his sister was. They finally told him that she was killed months ago. He dropped the phone and fell to the ground.

Abu Abbas tells us this story as he prepares Chicken Biryanni for us. Every few moments, he pauses, turns around, and sobs. Then he continues with the food preparation, wiping tears with his sleeve. He stands here in Jordan, away from his family, unable to properly mourn her. Surrounded by empty walls and only one picture of her, he tells us that cooking (which has become the source of his income here in Amman) is the only thing that helps him stay together. If he sits, he’ll be consumed with grief.

His family’s exile is due to their mixed religious affiliation. Abu Abbas is a Shi’a and his wife is a Sunni. The vulnerabilities people experience in Iraq has largely to do with what neighborhood they lived in. Some neighborhoods targeted professionals (like doctors and professors). Others looked for Christians. In Abu Abbas’ case, his neighborhood militias were targeting Sunnis in the area. Knowing that Abu Abbas’ own wife was a Sunni, they contacted him asking him to provide inside information of the Sunnis in the area. They also wanted him to prove his loyalty to the Shi’as by joining the militia’s activities, and killing Sunnis in the area. Of course Abu Abbas refused. But that evening, he returned home to find his neighbor shot dead in the street. His neighbor, also a Shi’a, was asked to do the same by the militias, and he too refused. Abu Abbas stood in horror, unable to help his neighbor even though his neighbors’ children begged him to. The street was filled with families watching behind blinds and opened cracked doors. It was known if they attempted to carry away this dead man, they would be shot too.

Abu Abbas received a call that same night from the militia. They told him that unless he joined and helped their efforts to rid the area of Sunnis, he would be next. Taking only the bag of clothes, a few pictures and their important papers, Abu Abbas and his five children escaped. He left his home not knowing if the militias were watching from the street, and was terrified he’d be shot dead getting into his car. They made it to a distant neighborhood where a friend lived, but received another call from the militia only hours later. They told him that they knew he had left, and he was being watched. They would find him wherever he went. There would be no escape.

Abu Abbas knew he had to leave Iraq, but needed time to get his family out. He told the militias that he would join them, but that he needed a couple of days to emotionally prepare himself to this kind of work. They agreed to give another day. Abu Abbas piled his children in the car, two of them were toddlers, and prayed that Jordan would let him in. He had heard that young men under the age of 35 weren’t being let in to Jordan for security reasons. He was exactly 35 year old, and only had one shot at saving his life. He would not kill others, and the only other choice was to be killed. He had nothing to lose.

The next morning, they drove to Iraq Jordanian border. At its edge, he received a call from the militia. Abu Abbas told them that he was finishing his tea, and would be right over. He then proceeded to his car’s turn in line. The Jordanian border agent looked at his passport, and the small children that packed the back of the car. The agent stated Abu Abbas’ age out loud, then asked him why he was coming to Jordan. Abu Abbas told him the truth. He told him that he had no other choice, he’ll be killed if he goes back to Baghdad. The agent took another look at his young children in the back, and gave back the passport. He motioned his hand towards the Jordanian side, and said, “Welcome to Jordan”.

Iraqis in Jordan Part 2

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , , , , on January 3, 2009 by halfpalestinian

Hamid - King of PicklesJan 1st, 2008
Amman, Jordan

The weather cleared up. I look out the dirty taxi window, catching glimpses of shops opening their doors in the morning cold. It’s a lazy start to the first day of the new year. All the hotel parties were canceled last night, a gesture of mourning for Israel’s war on Gaza. I slept early the night before, but still find myself tired. Deeply tired. My mind swims in stories of loss and suffering, and the eyes of the children I am meeting are starting to haunt my dreams. I think back to the young children at one family’s shack, and their stories of kids at school who put bugs and ants in their underwear, beat them up in packs like wolves, and throw stones at their homes. When I asked them why the other children were hurting them, the young girl responded simply, “We are Iraqis”.

But I can’t judge the kids whose bigotry finds this violent expression, they are obviously picking up their hatred from their homes. I can’t even judge their Jordanian parents who are passing down such hatred, because I too have witnessed the same behavior back in my home in the USA. The 30 years of America’s policies towards Iraq – the propping up of unfavorable regimes, the orchestration of Iraq’s invasion of Kuwait followed by the subsequent demonization of its actions and the Iraqi government, which “justified” the Gulf War, the years of bitter food and medicine sanctions that cost millions of lives, and this final illegal war, Operation “Freedom” – has all been largely tolerated and supported by the American people. Whether or not they justified such brutal actions on a defenseless people because of faulty information, apathy or ignorance, does not in itself absolve their complicity with America’s foreign policy towards Iraq. It other words, saying you “didn’t know” doesn’t mean you weren’t involved in the destruction of Iraq, and part of the overall effort that displaced, injured and killed millions of Iraqis. My own tax dollars are involved in these children’s misery, their tears quietly dropping from their eyes as they stare towards countless more years of uncertainty and hunger, unsure even if their loving father will be around to help soften the blow of the world’s neglect and inaction.

Without proper treatment and diagnosis, his war injuries are slowly killing him.

I was in Amman last summer trying to find an organization to help connect me with the Iraqi refugees. I spoke to my regular taxi driver, Amed, a kind fellow whose family originally came from Sudan although he himself was born in Jordan. I asked him to help me find such organizations, or even struggling Iraqi families that might be willing to talk to me. He laughed at the suggestion, declaring that all Iraqis in Jordan were millionaires. He then bitterly spit out accusations of them destroying their economy, driving up the prices of food, rent and utilities. I knew the roots of Amed’s bitterness quite well. Like most Egyptians, Jordanians and Palestinians who traveled to foreign countries for advanced degrees, learned to speak nearly perfect English and came back to their country for a perceived destiny of the major life improvement, he found nothing much had changed form him. Work was nearly non-existent, and if one found work as civil engineers or IT professionals, the pay often was far less than what could be earned driving a taxi. These young men were unable to improve their lives, live up to their parents’ expectations and sacrifice, or contribute to their families needs. They could not raise the funds to pay a dowry or cover the costs of the costly Arabic wedding (the groom pays for the wedding in the Middle East), nor build a home for a bride and a family, leaving him in precisely the same situation he was in before obtaining a degree. Education no longer held the same promise as it once did in the non-oil rich countries of the Middle East, and the bitterness of that reality now manifested in the current scapegoat, the Iraqi refugee. When not driving his car, Amed can be found at Jaffra coffee shop smoking shisha, bitching, staring…waiting.

Amed wasn’t entirely incorrect either. The first waves of Iraqis that fled before America’s invasion or soon there after were often well to-do, many former corrupt Ba’athists who were given amnesty or sought refuge before the Americans came. They brought with them their millions and were granted residency status because they were able to deposit the obligatory $150,000.00 JD’s in a Jordanian bank (which they cannot touch for three years). These transplants, however, are not the norm for the millions of others who fled with only their clothes on their backs, and a few family pictures stuffed among passports and birth certificates.

I told Amed that I wasn’t looking for the millionaires, but those who came because they had no choice. The refugees. He shrugged his shoulders and declared them all “gone”. He said all those Iraqis were relocated weeks after coming to Jordan, and I wouldn’t find any. I still don’t know if Amed really believed this or if he was simply trying to dissuade me from attempting to tell their stories of hardship here, or that he really couldn’t see them because how low a profile the refugees keep here. The refugees don’t like to attract attention, especially the single men. They face massive discrimination; people here often believe they are terrorists and militia deserters.

Amed (like many others I have met in Amman) made comments that the Iraqis didn’t belong in Jordan, that Jordan didn’t have the ability to take care of them. I pointed out that his own family came to Jordan many years ago seeking refuge and opportunity.

“That’s different.”
“How so?” I asked him.
“We didn’t come with millions of others.”

Amed appeared satisfied with that answer and turned up the Quranic prayers on his radio, and lit a cigarette. He hummed as he drove. The conversation was clearly over. But this conversation doesn’t stop in my head. Just as millions of illegal immigrants try to cross into America, and the millions more who have applied for Green cards (my own family included), everyone feels their own entitlement to a better life and more opportunity is unique and deserved. At odds are the millions more who truly believe that their country can’t sustain any more transplants, that their own opportunities are compromised by the infusion of competition – those who will work for less and drain all the welfare programs, tipping the balance into the grave unknown. So here we stand, with people at odds and in competition for basic resources, stoking the flames of fear and hatred, while our leaders start wars in order to “protect” and forward their own interests in the region, displacing millions and offering no reasonable solutions out of the mess they made of our lives. And so millions of children in Gaza, The West Bank, Iraq, Syria, Jordan, Afghanistan, Lebanon, Egypt (as well as countless other countries across the globe) go without. But when the cruelty bestowed upon the children of Iraq and Palestine is directly tied to our own failures and aggression, we are responsible for them. All of us, every single private citizen.

We cannot bury our head in the sand, nor shrug our shoulders at their dire misery. We should stop circulating letters defending the actions of American troops who have stolen from families, tortured, and indiscriminately unleashed their fury at those who don’t want them in their country, and never asked to be “protected” or “freed”. And America should not be the least generous country in the world towards the Iraqi refugees they accept, providing only a few meager months of income, no furnishings, or any real way to succeed in the resettlement process. Falling behind all of Europe, Canada and Australia in the shared responsibility of mending the broken lives of ordinary Iraqis only adds insult to injury. But still, all the Iraqis I have met here said they would take the chance to move to America in a heartbeat, if given one. Faced with the prospects of deportation to Iraq if they work in Jordan (where surely they would be targeted for leaving in the first place), or living without ANY means in Jordan, they would welcome the opportunity to take their chances and relocate to America, even with the stingy offerings that accompany it, even in a terrible economy.  The cooks, the dentists, the maids, the doctors, the teachers…all of the Iraqis I met say that just given the chance to work legally, they can make it. They are Iraqis. They have survived wars, Saddam, two Bushes, sanctions, and poverty. They have suffered greatly, but they believe in themselves. They believe they can make it if just given a real chance.

Iraqi Refugees in Jordan Part 1

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , , on January 1, 2009 by halfpalestinian

Dec 31st 2008
Amman, Jordan (working on behalf of Direct Aid Iraq)

I woke to the sounds of cold rain beating our apartment’s window. I could barely see the view of Jabel Amman’s crowded landscape, a scene normally pregnant with cars and boxy limestone buildings stacked over a mountain terrain. All of Amman’s hills are covered in white, a washed out Lego land dotted with breezy laundry lines, and smooth black disks beaming satellite programming from a shivering sky.

I am about to begin my first day photographing what is hidden and often forbidden amongst the predictable white stacks.

Iraqis – the unwanted “guests” of Jordan. I have learned to stop calling them refugees, for that term is too generous for the predicament they find themselves in here. They are ones without status, in limitless limbo, an appreciative guest who attempts to cross into the comforting embrace of a warm home of a host, leaving the winter at his back. But theses Iraqi guests can neither cross in nor leave behind the political reality of their now unfortunate identity. They stand at one precarious step outside of urgent and unpredictable danger, onto the slower death of an unavoidable and gut-wrenching poverty. Once in the “safe” arms of Jordan, they must remain jobless. Without permission to work for others or for themselves, they attempt at surviving through illegal means. But this risks deportation back to Iraq.

And those who are deported back to Iraq almost always die.

The taxi brings us to Hamid’s home, a squatter shack with a dripping tin roof and plastic nylon stretched where windows should stand. Hamid is a lively fellow and fairly young, perhaps in his late thirties. His three young children, Aseel, Muhammed and Asem run to greet us. The baby sits squarely in his mothers embrace. The children are fair like their father, an Iraqi Shi’a Kurd originally from the North, but grew up in Baghdad after Saddam’s Ba’athist regime confiscated his father’s land. His wife Hanan, a Palestinian woman, kisses our cheeks and welcomes us in. We stand for five minutes as they argue with me not to remove my shoes (which are covered in mud); they are afraid the painful cold of the stone earth floors will make me sick. But I know the inside story about their carpet, it is a donation from Direct Aid Iraq, and so I refuse to leave them on. Finally we strike a compromise; I would wear a pair of Hanan’s slippers.

The house is filled with the smells of tourishy – pickled vegetables mixed with spices, an Iraqi specialty. In fact the smell greets us directly from Hamid’s presence – his hands, his clothes, his smile. The stone floors are filled with neatly lined rows of glass jars packed with herbed stuffed pickles, bright purple beets and cabbage, dibbis (date syrup), thanini and my personal favorite, the very spicy yellow paste known as Amba. As children in Iraq, my brother and I used to dare each other to eat spoonfuls of Amba without rice or bread. Ever the fierce competitor, I’d choked back tears, my insides burning as I tried to one up my older brother with the mustardy mess in my mouth. I’d usually lose, but the training made me a life long lover of anything spicy – for me, the hotter, the better.

After the obligatory coffee and niceties, we get to work. Tomiko and I with video cameras, digital stills and an audio field recorder, pack their tiny crowded hall where Hamid makes the tourishy. He tells us poignant and funny stories about how the Iraqi people have renamed him “King of Tourishy”. An American woman, he tells us, took jars of the pickles to the USA. Her Iraqi friends cried when they opened the jars, the smell welcomed them back to their homeland. They insisted the jars came from Iraq, and not Jordan when Hamid now squats, waiting for his turn to relocate to America, Australia or Canada.

He sells the tourishy to survive. The jar sells for 1.5 Jordanian Dinars. He has two young children requiring formula milk at 4 dinars per day. He has to work, he tells us. The aid he receives is less than 50 JDs a month. Hamid worries for his family, but they worry more for him. He shows us scars covering his body, shrapnel wounds around his head and legs, including an eight-inch snake scar on his arm where he was severely injured. After his taxi exploded in Baghdad a few years ago, he laid in a coma for days. He still loses his hearing for weeks at a time, suffers through profound migraines and is prone to sudden fevers. The shock of the explosion triggered diabetes (as it has for many of the Iraqis we are meeting here), but managing his care has proved nearly impossible. He is passed from doctors who do not care to treat him (one told him he’d die in five years, and that they should save the medicine for someone who will live), or simply are untrained in the field. The Red Crescent caseworkers are overwhelmed; Hamid’s last doctor prescribed a dosage that makes him pass out from insulin shock each day. For four months his wife wakes him from this state, scared to death he will die. He shows us the metal plate that use to be in his arm; an object that was supposed to be removed after 6 months, but stayed in his body for nearly three years because he didn’t have the funds for its removal. Hamid holds out the screws and plate, defiantly demonstrating his will to live past such dire forecasts.

Hamid believes all his misfortunes will vanish if he can be relocated away from Jordan. He is quick to smile and to thank God for his good fortune – primarily his talent in the pickeling department. He believes he can survive anywhere with his gifts, if only if he’s given the chance to legally work, and to be rid of the deep hatred towards him and his family. Like many Iraqi’s, his family’s mixed identity is too complicated to fit neatly in some prescribed package of belonging and exclusion. He’s a Kurdish Iraqi in exile, and accepted by neither group in the current political climate. He hides his Shi’a iconography behind a closet door, but Hamid is the first to embrace another’s difference. He tells over and over that he is simply an “Iraqi”.

Hanan declared us all her sisters upon our leaving, begging for us to return. We argued again at the end of our stay, their wanting to bestow gifts of pickles and Amba on me, and my wanting to pay. Hanan didn’t want to be treated as a poor woman (she said if we treated her like she was poor, it made her poor), and asked that we come back “later” to buy gifts for friends, while letting her give us gifts now. But we knew better to take such gifts from them, even with their dignity in the balance. So I made a joke about my poor Arabic and how they were saving me from a trip to the store and the difficult discussion of ordering pickles, which I clearly had to do before going back to America. Whether they believed my story or not, it preserved their dignity and gave them the permission to accept the money they so desperately needed. Admittedly, I purchased more than I wanted to bring back to America.

That night, Tomiko and I opened a jar of pickles with our meal. The pickles were as delicious as he said they would be. I now know that none will come back with me to America, for surely I will eat them each night for the next few weeks I am here.

I will eat them, and I too will remember Iraq.

A Bethlehem Wedding in Mourning

Posted in Uncategorized on December 29, 2008 by halfpalestinian

I read the NY Times article from my plane ride — Bethlehem was experiencing the best Christmas in 8 years. The hotels were booked, the tourists were back in full force. I had waited a year to come back to my beloved Palestine. I was full of excitement. My friend Fadi was getting married and I made a promise to him that I would be at his wedding, no matter what would happen. Even a blizzard in Chicago that grounded me for two days couldn’t stop me from getting to his wedding. I arrived late at night on the 26th of December (in Jordan) and crossed into the Israeli controlled border early morning of the 27th. By the time I got into a taxi across the Bethlehem checkpoint, the bombing of Gaza was playing across all of the Arab news channels. Our taxi driver put on Al Jazeerah news (from his cell phone) so we could watch the horror of dead bodies (in full maimed detail) — babies and children bloodied and limp.

Fadi, the groom, stood at the entrance of the Nativity Church (where Christ was born). He wore his black tux and brown tie, clutching two cell phones at both ears.  He saw me coming in and gave me a huge hug. “Sama, we can’t have this wedding. The situation in Gaza is very bad.”

But he and I knew that the wedding had to go on. The bride’s family had traveled from Canada (at a whopping $2500 per ticket) to see this day happen. There would be no second chances. The flowers were bought, the reception booked, the cake ready. This was the shit about living in Palestine. You could never prepare for what Israel might do. The people were always at the mercy of their occupiers.

We tried to console him, and tell him that even in the face of death, life and love should be celebrated and honored. But that is not the Palestinian way. The strike would start tonight. Shops and restaraunts would close, Christmas lights turned off, and people would stay home. They would diligently watch tv, cry and call loved ones. The would send text messages back and forth. They would pray. And they would wait.

The wedding took place and we went to the reception hall. Half the seats remained empty, many of Fadi’s relatives and friends simply could not bring themselves to come.  This first day of their life together forever marked by the nearly 300 lives snuffed out by Israel. Merry Christmas. Happy New Year. Bethlehem, 2008.

Alshaibi featured in The Coup Magazine

Posted in Uncategorized on May 15, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Check out this month’s issue of the Coup Magazine (I’m in the gallery section)

Impression: The Settlements Choking Bethlehem

Posted in Uncategorized on May 15, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Impression: International Artists on the Wall

Posted in Uncategorized on May 15, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Impression: A Collaboration With The Girls of Dheisheh Refugee Camp

Posted in Uncategorized on May 15, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Settlement

Posted in Uncategorized on May 14, 2008 by halfpalestinian

My Show in Haifa, Israel – Curator Rula Khoury

Posted in Uncategorized on May 13, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Those of you just happening to be in Israel over the next three months, I have a show in opening in Beit Hagefen. I’m showing many, many images. The show deals with text, calligraphy, and image. Rula Khoury is a really exciting up and coming curator, I had the pleasure of working with her at Al Hoash.  She is so sweet, smart and talented. Website: www.beit-hagefen.com

invite to my show in Haifa.

sama video

Posted in Uncategorized with tags on May 9, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Gallery of Family

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , on May 9, 2008 by halfpalestinian

my cousins in nyc

Food (in Bethlehem – no sound)

Posted in Uncategorized on May 5, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Walking Bethlehem (no sound)

Posted in Uncategorized on May 5, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Walking Bethlehem (with sound)

Posted in Uncategorized on May 5, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Other Art on the Walls (older)

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , on May 4, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Santa’s Ghetto 2007 (features Banksy in Bethlehem)

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , , , on May 4, 2008 by halfpalestinian

Sama Alshaibi at Umbrella Gallery, NYC

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , , on February 18, 2008 by halfpalestinian

DetailsSama Alshaibi at Umbrella Gallery, NYC (ENFOCO PRESENTS)

Please come visit my show in NYC. The work will be from the project Birthright.

I will also give a presentation at Peer Gallery March 1st in Chelsea

Arabesque Music Ensemble

Posted in Uncategorized on February 18, 2008 by halfpalestinian

I met these amazing musicians this weekend, here from the East Coast. I felt like I was transported back in time, and experienced an actual Umm Kulthum. Hanna Khoury and Kareem Roustom blew me a way. You have to check out their cd and concerts! Plus, Kareem was the composer for the film, Encounter Point (a must see too!), with Hanna playing too. AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am an a huge Umm Kulthum fan and all I can say is that you have to hear this to believe it.

FROM THEIR WEBSITE: http://www.arabesquemusicensemble.com/home.html

“The Arabesque Foundation for Arab Culture is proud to announce a nationwide CD release tour, al-Fursan at-Talatha (the “Three Musketeers”). The concert tour features the Arabesque Music Ensemble (formerly the Chicago Classical Oriental Ensemble).

Al-Fursan at-Talatha features the music of Muhammad al-Qasabji, Zakariyya Ahmad, and Riyad al-Sunbati, who composed the majority of the repertoire for legendary Egyptian vocalist Umm Kulthum during the “golden age” of Arabic music in the 1930s and 1940s.

The “Three Musketeers” CD is the second recording of historical significance from the Arabesque Music Ensemble, following the 2006 release of “The Songs of Sheikh Sayyed Darweesh: Soul of a People.” This CD was named one of the “top-ten world music recordings” by the Boston Globe/WNYC. Peter Margasak of the Chicago Reader has deemed the new CD “a second great record,” citing its “elegant classical influence” and stating that the AME is “a really meticulously-organized group that recreates this music with incredible precision and clarity.”

From Beirut..to those who love us

Posted in Uncategorized on February 26, 2007 by halfpalestinian

A video that was widely circulated last summer, but in light of the new imposed curfews in Nablus, I thought we should see these reminders of IDF tactics.

Habibi

Posted in Uncategorized on February 13, 2007 by halfpalestinian

WELCOME TO MY STORIES FROM PALESTINE

Posted in Uncategorized on February 11, 2007 by halfpalestinian

“Don’t make this Wall Beautiful,” A Palestinian tells Banksy. “GO HOME”

Posted in Uncategorized on February 10, 2007 by halfpalestinian

“We hate this wall”

Christmas in Bethlehem 2006

Posted in Uncategorized on January 28, 2007 by halfpalestinian

Funny clip of all the Santas that are all over the streets in the week of Christmas. traffic was a nightmare! The santas would jump on your car and you can drive them around on your hood, they are spilling out of car windows, playing with kids and adults, and passing out candy (as seen here). It was so much fun!!!

Back in Jerusalem for "Secrets Exhbition" Dec 2006

Posted in Uncategorized on January 13, 2007 by halfpalestinian




Dear Friends and Family,

Greetings from Palestine in the Christmas season. I have been here for nearly five days and basically consumed with installing the 6+ show (with 8 Palestinian artists) in Jerusalem. The show opened last night and was an amazing success. We were able to meet with the American Consulate cultural office and lobbied for help for future projects including traveling our Palestinian artists to the US for the exhibition in Chicago. We hope our efforts were useful.

The situation is tense, quite like when I was here in the summer during the war, except now it is a strange excitement for the Christmas season (the West Bank celebrates Christmas on three different dates, depending on which tradition the people follow) yet it is mixed with dismay over the internal fighting between Fatah and Hammas. We, Mary Rachel, Tomiko and myself, are feeling a little unsure about whether or not to travel to Ramallah. There have been major clashes downtown, many of which resulted in death and injury…in fact, I had to go to Ramallah on Tuesday to grab a TV for the show and while sitting with friends over dinner, Zuzu (my friend Joseph who is a cameraman for Al Jazeerah English) got a call about the two factions fighting. For the next ten minutes, all the guys were making calls to confirm the location and it was next to Al Kassaba theater (where Zuzu’s wife works, as well as my friend Fadi). He said he had to run and would be back in ten minutes. I asked if he was going to go film it for work but he noted that he just wanted to get his car away from the bullets.

So, as usual, the cavalier manner my Palestinian friends take in regards the shootings is a little chilling and strange. Fadi noted later that they simply closed the doors at the theater and people continued to watch the evening film program. Last night, we went out with Rana Bishara and Fadi in a hip Jerusalem restaurant for dinner and the calls came to Fadi from friends not to go through Qalandia checkpoint…again, fighting but this time with the soldiers. He said he would just go through another way. So this is life here.

We are planning on visiting more of Israel (historic Palestine) on this trip. We have made many Palestinian friends from Haifa and other places that have invited us…it will be interesting to see how the Palestinians live there.

My entry to Israel was very difficult this time. I was nearly deported. They had searched me online and decided that the reasons I gave for coming (installing an art show) was provided without context to who I was. It was me and IDF intelligence in a small room for over an hour (after a four hour interegation with others) as they pulled up all of my information. We had a “discussion” or a debate on whether or not they “would have” let me in had I been fully upfront. I claimed that they wouldn’t…that it is well known that they block activists, artists, etc. from helping Palestinians in the area. He claimed they would have so as long as it wasn’t with any of the groups on their “terror” lists. He took my cell phone and started to go through all the numbers looking for ones in the West Bank. Many were American numbers that had similar area codes…these were funny discussions. He wanted to know if my husband knew I was here. Kind of crazy.

I told him that I had a hard time believing he was going to let me in because the 17 year old kid next to me (an American) was deported because he didn’t have a good enough reason (or travel plans) for being there. He replied that it was because he would be an easy target for militants to plant bombs on and the kid would unknowingly bring them into Israel. These things don’t happen, but that is what they say when they want to deny entry.

Anyway, after he took all the numbers from me and checked them out, I was out of the airport in five minutes. A very scary five hour delay that wind up being quite interesting in the end. I wish I could have his business card so I can hold him to it next time I come.

Right now I am in Bethlehem saying hi to my friends at the ICB (Dar Annadwa). The weather is pleasant and it is always hard to reconcile the beauty and hardship of this land. I hope to start work on my art and research soon. I hope everyone is having a good holiday season and will be (hopefully) writing in from time to time.

Don’t worry, I’m always safe and not interested in being where the action is.

Lots of love,

Sama

Trouble Updating

Posted in Uncategorized on October 23, 2006 by halfpalestinian


You know, I spent a whole other week in Palestine after that last entry. I also went back a few weeks ago for two weeks. It is not that I’m not writing, I am. But I’m starting to feel strange about posting all of it. Maybe I feel like I’m telling secrets about the trip, or I can only be so open because now all of those people that I wrote about are my close friends, and those that come with me from the US may feel my take on things are not their interpertation of events. I know this is a journal format, and actually, I always compose in a journal and simply type it in (it is not like I have a laptop when I travel there).

I was inspired today reading my good friend’s blog about our last trip (Mary Rachel Fanning). I think I’m going to start putting these “dated” enteries back in, in the present voice it deserves (even if the dates don’t match on the site).

Too many people have read this and commented back for me to stop. In a way, I feel this blog has far more of an impact than any artwork I have ever made.

I also get scared sometimes…that someone stupid will read this and make the wrong assumptions about what is my point. I want to be clear. My point is, and always have been, to be a witness and tell the truth. Sometimes the truth is ugly towards Palestinian life. But most of the times, it shows how they have been sold out by the world. I’m not militant…I believe in peace at all costs and that war and violence is never the answer. I believe in non violent struggle. But I will not judge the victim before I judge the oppressor. I will not and cannot hold double standards because it is popular, or safe for my personal life or for my career. There will be those who will spend their lifetime trying to bring down someone like me. And they may succeed. But it won’t matter. In the end, it won’t matter.

Justice has a way of winning in the end.

Jerusalem/ We made it!

Posted in Uncategorized on July 17, 2006 by halfpalestinian

My aunt called me last night saying we shouldn’t go. I was tired of the back and forth and told her she shouldn’t then, but I was. Somehow, in the night and while we were sleeping, we all must finally have agreed. We traveled a little late in the day and I was sure that the bridge would be closed. After arriving on the Jordanian side of Allenby Bridge, guard after guard told us that all Arabs with foreign passports were being sent back, as much as 20 American Arabs in the past hour. We decided quickly that we had to try. My aunt didn’t realize it till the last minute that she was carrying her old Iraqi passport, an expired document that has no useful function except that it proves she is an Iraqi and that one-day she may be able to go back. We didn’t know what to do. IF the Israeli’s found this passport, surely they would feel that she was sympathetic to Iraq (why else would she be carrying a defunct passport around?). She couldn’t bring herself to throw it away. I know how she feels. I still have mine, refusing to surrender it when I became an American citizen.

She stuck it in her purse and prayed for the best, that is, until she found about 30 pictures in her purse of her family dressed in traditional Palestinian peasants clothing from a long ago trip to Amman when her adult children were still small kids. She kept asking us, “What is wrong with me?”

The drive across the bridge was spent mostly in silence except for the occasional reminders of what not to say to the Israeli Border agents. Several new checkpoints appeared on the bridge where we had to come out and the soldiers searched the bus for bombs. Arriving at the Israeli side, in the usual crazy chaos, had me feeling the impending dread of multi hour interrogations. But strangely, I passed the “security questions” check in a matter of minutes (my aunt and cousins were not subjected to it at all). The whole process took less that half an hour, they did not check our bags and we were allowed in. They asked us…”Are you a family on vacation?” yes!!! This apparently is the way to travel to Israel!

My family flipped for the beauty of the Dead Sea and barren hills. More and more checkpoints (of course) and then we arrived to the old city in East Jerusalem. Of course I chose the most beautiful hotel to stay in steps away from Damascus Gate. We are so grateful to be here and yet so troubled by the possibility of the unknown dangers. For today, at least, we celebrated our return to Palestine and pray that peace will soon arrive.

Love,

Sama

Preparing to Go

Posted in Uncategorized on July 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian

Dear Friends and Family,

It is the night before I leave once again to Palestine, but even I admit that this might be the worst of trips. My cousins, 3 females and 2 males, are split along gender lines. The women are wanting to go so bad, but the guys…they want assurance and comfort from me but they are looking at the wrong place. My mom calls and slips the names of my sons as if that is the THING I need to hear. I hear her, but I hear other things too.

I don’t know if this time I’m being too crazy but I let my fear control my life before and I just can’t do it anymore. I put my heart and faith in Allah. My Palestinian friends say it will be okay, but they can’t promise the hell won’t come in at any moment.

It is time to try. Once again, it is time.

Wish me well and pray for my family and I on this crazy journey to the un-promised of lands.

Sama

For Toni at Mary’s tomb

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian


On the last moments in the old city of Jerusalem, on the last night in Israel/Palestine, we made a new friend who tends to one of the churches. He walked us down from the Mount of Olives back to the old city to help us get a cab. At the last second, he turned to us and said, “Would you like to see Mary’s Tomb?”

We went down many stairs into a dark hall underground. The smell of Frankincense and Myrrh was strong. A second “box” kind of room stood in the middle, where her tomb was. Sherry and I ducked to enter the short doorway, and there was only room for about two people. Our new friend asked us if we would like to light a candle and pray. We said we would. We lit two candles for our teacher and friend, Toni Rosato, who was struggling with end stages of breast and brain cancer. Sherry and I held hands and said a prayer for her. We told our friend about Toni, and he shook his head and said, “Even though I’m a Muslim, I believe these are the signs of the return of Christ. We are near the end of the world.”

When we flew back super early the next morning (after the worst hasseling from Israel AND America), and when I returned to the US, I immediately found out Toni had passed on the day before. When factoring in the time difference, she died somewhere in the time we were at Mary’s tomb.

Rest in Peace, Toni.

Last Impressions of the Holy Land

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian





Jerusalem

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian





Dome of the Rock

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian





More from Jerusalem Souks

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian





Damascus Gate: Entrance to the old city Jerusalem

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian





Hell on Earth, Qalandia Checkpoint

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian






The only way in and out of the large city of Ramallah. A broken, long, dark, muddy and chaotic checkpoint.

More from Budrus

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian






Abu Islam shows us the electric fence that now surrounds the village. Budrus became famous for being the only village to successfully alter the “Wall” plans of Israel. The original map called for the annexing of all of their olive trees. The whole village stood up to the protest day after day (non violent), as human shields for their trees when the bulldozers came. It attracted attention regionally, then nationally, then worldwide. In the end, with all of the media attention focused on Budrus, Israel decided it wasn’t worth fighting over. They retreated back to the “Green Line” (1967 borders) and put the electric fence up instead of the concrete walls. You can see it in the distance.

I love the cacti surrounding Budrus. It is a powerful symbol of the country. The house in this picture is Abu and Om Islam’s home (originally Sheik Muslihh, her father’s home). Emel’s mother was Giddo’s sister.

Budrus (Giddo’s village), 2nd Visit

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian






My friends joined me for the afternoon meal at Mom’s first cousin’s home (Khala Emel and her husband, Abu Islam). Pictures of them in their home, also making fresh Za’ter, walking around the gardens of sage and herbs, and finally, restoring Giddo’s mother’s home (Tuhfa)…should be finished in 6 months.

And just a few more from Jericho

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian




More from Jericho and the Dead Sea

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian






We took ski lifts (what are the names?) to get to a church from the 40 days/nights of the bible (this is where Jesus stayed from that story…sorry, I’m lacking in Christian knowledge!). Then we had dinner and Argila over the clifftops at sunset…listening to the blasting music of Om Kalthoom. Would be perfect, if we weren’t the only ones there…another reminder that tourism is gone, and the people of Jericho can’t afford their own cafes.

On the way, and there…Jericho

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian






A piece of heaven on earth. 8 checkpoints, 2 turnarounds and all the lies in the world. It was SOOOOO worth it.

Details from Palestine

Posted in Uncategorized on March 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian






The airport picture is in Milan on the way there. There rest are for the senses.

Ramallah

Posted in Uncategorized on February 19, 2006 by halfpalestinian

Dear All,

We have been hanging out Ramallah over the past several days…it remind me a lot of Amman, but with checkpoints and walls of course. It visually looks like Amman though. I ate Kenaffa for the first time in my life today. I heard my Tata (grandmother) speak about the Kenaffa dessert forever, but never had the chance to eat it. It was amazing…hot cheese, Arabic honey, sharryia…mmmm.

I finally got to see Surda today, the road that Israel often puts a checkpoint in, dividing Ramallah in half, and preventing students from attending Beirzet University. It was considered one of the most dangerous crossings before the cease-fire. Very close to it, is also another settlement that you cannot approach too close. Israeli snipers perch high on the towers, shooting at anything that comes to close, or makes a movement they do not like. I have mostly been spending time with my friends Wafa, Taghreed, ZuZu, Mohammed and Fadi. The city is fun; it feels more like a vacation now than most of my time spent here. We are still meeting with artists and I am doing lots of research for my film, but here we can go to café’s and restaurants… it’s not so bad…and I’m not so aware of the occupation unless we approach the Kolandia checkpoint or have a need to leave. At least for these few days, there are more services and things to do. Sure, life is difficult, and Israel is discussing turning off the electricity or to prevent money transfers (except for the Red Cross) as punishment for electing Hamas…but so far nothing has happened.

We will see. I will write more later…if I can. No one gives me anytime to do so…

All the best,

Sama

Dehaisha Martyrs Cemetary

Posted in Uncategorized on February 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian


Dehaisha Refugee Camp

Posted in Uncategorized on February 16, 2006 by halfpalestinian

Fourth Day in Bethlehem

Today Sherry and I visited a refugee camp close by Bethlehem, name Dehaisha. We met with the director (and a social worker), Naji, of the Alfaneiq Center, within the camp. We spent all day with him and his wife, Suhar. Naji took us to his home, where we met his four kids, and had dinner with them. It was supposed to be this thirty minute meeting, but he spent the entire day showing us the camp, including an incredible visit to the cemetery of their martyrs (see pictures). He and his wife were born in the camp, but their parents are from a small village outside of Jerusalem. As difficult as the life is in Palestine, in pales in comparison to the refugee camps. The poverty is staggering, and the landscape is cruel. Everyone there has lost immediate family members to the occupation. Apache helicopters, bombs, bulldozers, shelling…these are everyday realities. Nightly visits by the Israeli tankers are still the norm.

11,000 residents live in the camp, no large than the size of small commercial mall complex, squeezing the residents to as much as 12 family members to a room. The residents of Deheisha are from 46 of the 418 villages from Al Nakba “The Catastrophe”, when 800,000 Palestinians were forced to flee their homes to create the state of Israel in 1948.

Naji showed us the high school, bullet ridden after a peace protest the students engaged in 2003. They were on 24 hour lockdown curfew, with only a couple of hours per week to purchase food from the stores. Naji lost six members of his family in the past several years. His son, a seventeen year old boy, lost two friends, one who was shot in the heart just walking to his class. He was shot in the legs. Naji has spent over 10 years in prison, not for fighting with his body, but with his words and ideas. His wife, a dietician, had to support her family alone, and keep the struggle of resistance with the camp. They are the major players there, organizing collaborations between countries, hosting visits, building libraries, fitness centers, cultural events…whatever they can possibly do to keep hope and life alive at the camps. Leaving the camp is illegal without permission, and hardly ever granted. Naji often breaks the law to travel out, as he must do for his line of work. When we spoke to him about a possible community project with artists from the US and their teenagers, he asked that we focus on the teenage girls first, because their life stops after coming home from school. They cannot walk on the streets; they have no activities, and most have nothing at all to do at home.

There are no parks, no fields, no pools, no lakes, no courts, no halls, no coffeehouses, no nothing. His kids play soccer in his living room, often breaking the light fixtures and knickknacks. He doesn’t want them to play on the narrow, curving streets where a car may hit them, or a tank may shoot at them. He said that even in his home, the occupation enters. He is forced to listen to his neighbors music, TV, conversations (and we heard it all too when we are there), his kids playing and breaking items. But he so quick to smile and is so obviously in love with his wife. He is proud of his children, who want to study political science, language, health…anything to help their own. They will never leave, the will never stop fighting. Even if given the chance to attend school elsewhere, they will go, but they all said they would come back to their refugee camp until they are allowed to return to their village and build a home.

Suhar, his wife, works at a hospital for the mentally ill. She also sells the needlework/embroidery crafts of the women in her camp. Many do not have an education, and most of the residents are unemployed. Because of Naji and her work, they often meet foreigners who travel to the camp and she offers them the opportunity to purchase the crafts, rather than asking for a handout/donation. This way, the women can have dignity and pride…that they can earn money for their families and themselves. The crafts are beautiful and Sherry and I purchased what we could. Suhar made us the most wonderful meal of Shorba (soup), fried chicken, fried cauliflower, bread, hummus and salad. Her family of six, Sherry and I crowded around a table that should only fit four, eating closely together. There was so little food on the table, I almost felt guilty eating it. I knew I would insult them not to, and so we shared dinner and laughter with their children. The sad thing is, his family is better off than most…because both he and his wife are employed and educated. But even they would be considered at the very bottom of the poverty line in the US.

0utside their home, they have a few feet of concrete where many house plants sat. Suhar proudly told us this was her garden, but she dreams of the day when she will have a big yard, and will plant lemon and olive trees. In her dream, all of her children and family will be in her home, safe and secure. She believes paradise will be her home, filled with family, surrounded by this beautiful garden with lemon and olive trees. I couldn’t escape a feeling of guilt for the garden I have in Colorado, surrounding my little house…the garden I hated to water and neglected like it was nothing. Every inch of garden that I see as a burden of upkeep and time…this is the best wish for those who have no land to watch their children play on, no land to grow a single blade of grass. They have mud streets, concrete floors, and potted plants. The Palestinian Apartheid keeps them from accessing the fields of their countryside, the paved road for their cars, and to travel to coast of the Mediterranean. She said that once she traveled to the South of France, and broke down in tears when she saw the water. She realized it was the same body of water that traveled alongside her homeland, that she has forever been prevented to see, to smell and to touch.

There was no subject that upset them more than the subject of the Danish cartoons of the Prophet. It was ironic, because only the night before I said to my hosts at the International Center that I can’t stand seeing the Arab and Muslim world united and demonstrating against a stupid ink and paper drawing in newspapers, when people here are being killed, starved, abused and terrorized in Palestine and even Iraq. Naji and Suhar both said the exact words from my mouth in different conversations. It is absolutely unbelievable to me…and yes, I do stand in judgment of my own people because of this. Let people be mad at me for saying this, I am mad too. If they have the time to stand on the streets screaming, to burn flags, or write letters, to organize a protest…whatever…they should also have the time for the millions of Palestinians who have no life and no ability to change a damn thing in this world. And the same for the Iraqi’s who must live in terror from the US sponsored war. Is a cartoon more important than a life????

At the cemetery of the martyrs, there laid 12 empty graves for the bodies they have not been able to get back from the Israelis. Those bodies lay in a refrigerator, but their final resting place waits for them. We asked them, what makes them a martyr? Anyone who has been killed by an Israeli because of the occupation is considered a martyr. Innocent children and old women, young men walking to school, and even those who stood up to fight…they are all martyrs and they lay together in a special cemetery high on a mountain side with the most beautiful views I have ever seen…

All the best,

Sama

Walls and Checkpoints

Posted in Uncategorized on February 15, 2006 by halfpalestinian




Bethlehem Architecture Old and New

Posted in Uncategorized on February 15, 2006 by halfpalestinian